Don't a bloody R80rt then, the bloody things are in the headlamp shell!!, and a pain in the ass to get to..., I ended up relocating my fuses into the tank box ( it was an ex police R80 and had the radio box built into the top of the gas tank)

__________________

I'll drink to that !

__________________
Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

Good point!
Poor/bad battery with permenent magnet alternator => no charging... experienced that once on a Kawasaki.

Availability of spares is most important.

If it is legal where you are to register and use your bike consider yet an option, car alternator.
Depending on pulley size you can get full power from idle and up. I have choosen to have full power from around 1800rpm, and charging from around 1000rpm.

Pros:
- choose an alterator that is most common in your area.
- low costs
- much more power than any bike-alterator (I have a 70A, 980W, installed now and plan to install a 90A, 1260W, on my summer bike)
- spares "all over"
- more stabil/balanced idle, similar to the older heavy flywheel
- engine runs a little bit cooler, and there is a fan blowing on the engine-side all the time
- installed on the righthand side of the bike => original alternator can be re-installed


Cons:
- takes about 20h to install
- belt needs tightning every now and then
- addes weight... 10 pounds or so
- installed on the lefthand side of the bike => original alternator mounts have been removed, no reistallment of original alternator possible with this camchain-cover; to re-install the original alternator one will have to get a new cam-chain cover.


Alternator installation, in Swedish - just look at the photos, they "tell the story" and give you all the installation procedures:
http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/bilgen.html
http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/mont_bilgen.html

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert

1/6/11 update

Didn't do much today except get a really nice fitting that allows me to refill the 1lb green propane cylinders with a 20lb tank. It should save me a few pennies considering those 1 pound tanks are $4.99 each. I can fill about 20-30 with a 13.99 refill. :clap

It's called a Mr. Heater F276172 1-Pound Disposable Propane Tank Refill Adapter.

Got a clutch as well because mine is the original and grabs when hot.


I took a couple photos of my transmission break that was caused by low torque of the drive shaft bolts when two came out and got jammed. I was considering having it welded but I heard about a product called pyroweld. That will probably solve the issue on the cheap and proper.





A fellow rider is graciously forwarding me an outline for the PD skid-plate. I have an official US Govt surplus sign (not stolen ) made of heavy aluminum and I'm just going to make my own skid and center stand plate rather than screw with eBay.


It's this thick

In Maine USA...everything is legal...including marrying your first cousin

Seriously though. I had briefly concidered doing that alt option for a few minutes but it's too heavy, expensive, exposed to the elements, and again..WAY TOO HEAVY.

Take a look at a friend of mines mod..800watts

Weight -is- an issue.

Your friends installation of the 800W alternator is -awesome- !!!

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert

Emailed back the questions you wanted.

BTW; the Alt is of Australian origin, and Greg Hutchinson of California installs them occasionally in his R80g/s buildups. Good guy who knows his stuff

1/7/11 update

I spent most of today pulling the major bits off the bike. This was something I've been avoiding as my balancing act lift depends on equal weight front and back.

The monolever came out very easily, and found my brake rod beginning to crack at the mount. No biggy, needed to be replaced anyways. In any case, that system is a whole other chapter dealt with at a later point.


To deal with the balance issue I tied a rope to my roof rafter to keep it supported while I pulled the forks, and a box under the front wheel after I pulled the monolever.
This was not a fun part


After I pulled my forks I got thinking:
-Can I use the races with the bearings on the r100GS forks if they are serviceable? I don't see why not, and this will prevent the headache of pulling them.

- Do you think it's possible to use the 32mm light brackets with the 40mm fork tubes if I just dremmel out the difference? at $22 bucks a piece it seems like a good idea.


From here I pulled the trans. It's so easy with with monolever removed!!!
It came right out and the entire trans facing was covered with oil. AND the splines were nice and red....WITH RUST




The stuff last used will be tossed, I'm going to get some Honda Moly60 for reassembly.

The bike saw about 8000 miles over this season and I don't see why it was this dry. Lesson learned

Took some better photos of the trans flange damage too. I will probably fix that with some putty/jbweld and call it good. I'll also replace the trans seal, just in case that's whats leaking. I'm also going to be pulling the flywheel and double checking the RMS and oil cover. I did not torque the bolts right on reassembly with the oil cover. This may be an issue as well.



Speaking of the RMS. I actually have the tools to do it right this time
Too bad I still need a damn rotor puller.


So I have an engine and frame left.

1/8/11 update:
Didn't do much but read other posts and clean the trans up.
I used heavy duty degreaser called GoofOff that nearly took out an eyeball in NM when used last. However this time safety glasses were worn.

Following the the degreasing, Q-tips and picks were used. Then a brass brush and a stainless steel scrub pad. Finally followed bay a sweep of Goofoff and a scrubbing of the metal cleaner/protectant. The results speak for themselves

Metal before:



Metal After:





I do need to further work on this though, as well as the corners of the prior edge photo

1/9/11

Went down to the shed this afternoon and continued working on the filthy transmission. I was using goofoff but in such a small space with the heater chances of fume issues and possible fire are fairly high so decided to find a good citrus cleaner and degreaser. I think I got some all natural concentrated stuff and some purple magic citrus degreaser. Both actually work BETTER than goof off and smell great.

So managed to get the trans pretty well clean. I'm going to hit the edges with a dremmil buffer tomorrow.



I also got around to fixing that flange.





I used new JB weld


Not the stuff that exploded in the tool kit


I do need to dremmel it into shape tomorrow after it cures.

1/10/11

Today was a fun one. I got to go and string up my bike to the rafters to get the engine out of the frame. It kind of felt odd though seeing it done that way. Just hanging there. That is one heavy engine.



Finished up cleaning up the transmission. The JB is not set yet due to the temps. Put it is the consistency of play-dough which allow me to mold it in quite nicely. Purchased a couple dremmil bits to clean it up proper when it's cured. I also confirmed the trans input seal is leaking....


Ended up getting a flush of package notices in the mail today. Turing them in resulted in a nice yellow set of forks, beautiful fender, spectacular corbin seat and a brake caliper.




When I pulled the engine out and started cleaning, the first thing I did was pull the clutch. Have you ever seen a clutch disk so glossy? Apparently I read these OE clutches were subject to premature failure too?



I found this wear interesting though...ideas?


The next thing done was to pull the starter......hmmmm a Bosch. I was hoping for a Valero. I noticed the teeth were a bit chewed too.



There is one saving grace however....the RMS is in good shape and not leaking so it must be the oil pump cover. Here is a shot of below the RMS


So next I dove into the engine and started cleaning away 30 years of gunk. I found the mysterious number, and after cleaning, touched it up. I may add my own mark as well for the next guy to do this.




So rehung the frame to work with it easier and currently letting it soak with orange cleaner


The engine will be fun...

The streeringhead races have to be pulled.
It is not that tricky.

Special tools, made in USA. Non expensive and of high quallity.
Ask Snowbum:
[url=http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/techindex.htm]Robert Fleischer, BMW Motorcycle Maintenance &

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert

I did write a comprehensive reply...
Where the... is my text?!
This is getting annoying!

Weld a piece of metal across the races, one at a time. Knock/tapp it out.
The heat from the two spotwelds will expand and then shrink the race.

Should you want a puller anyway:
Forks, Shocks, Swingarm & Frame : CycleWorks.net LLC, The original source for tools and parts for your antique, vintage, and classic BMW motorcycle or Isetta car

Use Omega 77 grease:
http://www.magnagroup.com/products/o...ure/odis77.pdf
Magna Industrial Co. Limited
My supplier:
www.smorjteknik.se

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert

Don't be disappointed its not a Valeo! Be happy.
The magnets don't fall off the Bosch units.
They just turn a little slower.

Cheers,
John

__________________
Nostradamus Ate My Hamster

Seems as if I am just about the only one who prefers the Valeo over the Bosch starter-motor...

There is one major -fault- with the Valoe. It is a factory fault. They have -forgotten- to fill the "gearbox/planetary" with grease!
Omega 85 "shear sensation" is my primary option, and Omega 77 is my secondary option.

So if you begin with open the Valoe, and proceed with filling the gearing with top of the line grease - it will last. I have used mine for over 160 000km, short stops/rides.
All I have needed to do is to renew the brushes twice.


Current needed to activate startermotors:
Bosch 320A
Valeo 15A
A rough estimate at -10'C is that a 28Ah fully charged battery will allow for 4 attempts of less than one second to start using the Bosch startermotor... at -20'C it is about 2 attempts...

However, there are frequent report of broken Valoes, the magnes brake loose... this is a problem that does not happen with the Bosch startermotor.

Since weight is an issue in this overhaul/renovation, one should also look at the difference in pounds between theses startermotors.
The Valeo is far lighter than the Bosch, about 1/2-1/3 if I remember correctly.

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert