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  #121  
Old 16 Feb 2011
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Good to know on the bars. I was thinking about drilling mine but won't now knowing this. I've passed up a couple of the Heinrich tanks...BLAH are they fugly. I'll get an HPN or PD tank at some point. That is if I can find one reasonable



Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
There were duff handlebars fitted to early R80GS models - they had an oblong hole machined in between the saddle clamps for the handlebar wiring to pass through. There was a recall on the handlebars, but just check you have the correct bars as they were prone to breaking in half after a few hours riding on a corrugated road.

You've got to hunt down a Heinrich 42 litre long range tank!! Looks so much more macho than that piddly 16litre!!! Plus you can deliver fuel to remote places.
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  #122  
Old 17 Feb 2011
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2/17/11

Got a huge order from MAX today, seems I ordered a few things I did not need :shog Hopefully They will accept a box of returns. Not sure why I ordered some of this stuff? I'm also missing a couple things I should have ordered like the drive shaft bolts...I'm an idiot. Can I reuse my old ones?


Got to install the trans as well went in clean and bolted right up In stalled the center stand, shifter with new bushing. Transmission harness.




I also finished cleaning up that nightmare of a front wheel. Not perfect, but passible.
After:



Before:


I drilled the hole for the gas tank vent. I also found a great spot for the RAM mounts.



Yeah, I also reinstalled this


It's coming along:


The weather is getting warmer so the door can stay open while I work
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  #123  
Old 18 Feb 2011
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Dont re use the drive shaft bolts - prone to fracture when re tightened. Correct torque is important.
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  #124  
Old 19 Feb 2011
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Hi Adam,

been away for a week or I would have told you to look at these for the Ram mounts:
RAM-B-367


Perfect for bar clamps

John
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  #125  
Old 19 Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redboots View Post
Hi Adam,

been away for a week or I would have told you to look at these for the Ram mounts:
RAM-B-367


Perfect for bar clamps

John
Cool Thanks John...I'll have to get a couple. I just had that one laying around.
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  #126  
Old 20 Feb 2011
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2/18/11

Installed the braided fuel line today. Then went ahead and put scotchbrite pads on either side of the oil breather like Infra per solo's suggestion to him.....What benefit does this have? Will it make a mess? Solo? I'm guessing that by MILDLY restricting pressure the oil will not just simply flow out of the breather and into the box. The scotch brite pads prevent other stuff from entering.


I also installed the clutch actuator. Because I didn't see any reason NOT to I brushed my moly/red tacky goop lightly on all sliding surfaces.


Installed the airbox cover with the BMW recommended holes at the end of the horn. Put in the battery box and also battery temporarily.




I went ahead and got a set of r100gs side covers

I also sent in an order to Rick at ME for the green coil, condensor, brushes and springs. He's taking my solid mounts back for a credit...good guy

At the moment I am pretty much at another standstill. My SS brake actuator is still enroute from england and it's kind of necessary to have it installed to then install the monolever. I would like to work on the front but need to put in an order for the remainder of the fork signal parts.

So:
Need to order Hotgrips
4 more wish lists with MAX
1 supply run to marine supply for electrical parts.
Get the tire switched over to the r100GS rim...nearly impossible to do in the winter myself as the rubber is too hard.
Need a K-R11?? left brake caliper and hose to mount brakes.
Plus ????

Damn I got a long way to go
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  #127  
Old 20 Feb 2011
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2/19/11

Took the G/S wheel off of the forks today. I'll drop the wheels off this week to get them changed over.

Decided after careful thought that I might as well reinstall the stock dripper system back into the bike. I did this for a couple reasons...
1. I have enough drips coming from this bike as it is....I don't need another coming from a hose
2. I don't like having free oil coming around as it attracts dust and dirt therefore creating a mess.
3. I don't want to deal with a catch tank as I don't need the smell of burnt oil
4. The stock system has worked now for 55k miles, the carbs were not all oily and honestly why mess with a working system?


I also did a quick alignment of the r100 seat with the G/S tank....yes it does fit but the gap is absolutely crappy. I may use the G/S subframe until I can find a GS tank.

I got a caliper off of a r1100r to replace the 2 pot on the r100gs forks.I need to machine a bit off but the added braking should be nice
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  #128  
Old 20 Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowraven View Post
4. The stock system has worked now for 55k miles, the carbs were not all oily and honestly why mess with a working system?
I removed mine. I blanked one side of the "T" and ran a silicone tube from the other side, down through the hole in the airbox, (for the, removed, air system). I used a wiring grommet to get a snug fit to the tube and ran the tube down below the motor and anchored it there.

Just another option

Cheers,
John
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  #129  
Old 20 Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redboots View Post
I removed mine. I blanked one side of the "T" and ran a silicone tube from the other side, down through the hole in the airbox, (for the, removed, air system). I used a wiring grommet to get a snug fit to the tube and ran the tube down below the motor and anchored it there.

Just another option

Cheers,
John
Just be aware that if you stall in water, the breather tube can easily suck water up into the engine.
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  #130  
Old 20 Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
Just be aware that if you stall in water, the breather tube can easily suck water up into the engine.
From what I understand that is if the valve is not working as it should.
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  #131  
Old 21 Feb 2011
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Following the rebuild

Hi Adam,

Even though I have no experience rebuilding a R80 or the like just thought I'd drop in on your thread and say "Hey, looks good."

Keep posting and I'll keep reading, call it moral support in the 3' of snow you have

Cheers,

Pascal
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  #132  
Old 28 Feb 2011
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Just a quick update;
Been away for a few days in Ottawa Canada. Great city!!

I ended up getting my brake caliper in the mail while I was away and a friend of mine offered to machine it for me for free to save me from myself Took it all apart to save shipping and I'm sending just the part that needs machined.

Still waiting on my shock, brake rod, and Max order. Got some signals off of a different bike but they are very different...I will have to figure something out with them.

Got my tire switched over to the r100gs rim. It turned out to be perfectly true so I got lucky there.

The big news is I found a R100GS tank is great condition. It's in bumblebeemer scheme so I won't have to touch my forks....that will save some coin. I just need a cap and a set of petcocks. This also means that the rear rack will be painted in yellow.





I got the reconditioned Works shock back today and polished it up. Needed a shaft and all new seals with oil. I'm sure It's nice.....but never feel good about getting something back that looks the same as when it was sent. Kind of like getting a car fixed.....no change except less dough in the bank account.


I need some input on which dirt skin color to get with the Bumblebeemer scheme?

ATV Shock Covers, UTV Shock Covers, MX Shock Covers, Neoprene Shock Covers, Shock Covers, ATV Shockcovers, UTV Shockcovers, MX Shockcovers, Neoprene Shockcovers, Shockcovers, ATV Shock Cover, UTV Shock Cover, MX Shock Cover, Neoprene Shock Cover, Sho

I ended up going for this fender, the Acerbis Tecnik. I will be hitting the rear section black.

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Last edited by The Raven; 28 Feb 2011 at 23:19.
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  #133  
Old 4 Mar 2011
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3/4/11

Bike finally got to stand on her own two wheel today and her stands.


I went ahead and installed all the switchgear on the bars today. I hope to replace the switches at some point to make them a bit more cleaned up. Didn't make any connections as the bars need to come off to change the fork caps when the arrive.




I also found out that the ST/ G/S rack I got actually fits the rear of the R100GS subframe. I may use it as a aux carrier if I need it for trips.


Connected the points wire to the coil with the marine grade connectors and 14ga anchor wire. Not much clearance for those screws though....not sure why he didn't make the bracket longer to work for the other hole.



Cleaned up and reinstalled the indicator lights today





Modified and mounted the center police switch but found that the center stud has a clearance issue. I need bar risers, a smaller nut or need to cut the existing one in half.



Rick sent me the gen light bypass so I'm thinking about mounting the LED light gauge over the gen light. I can run the wire right into the light hole so no issue with permanent changes.


Got some swag for the Bike when it's done. An ABC rag for the toolbag,


Some tea to warm up. Yes...maple syrup comes in brick form too. :lol3
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  #134  
Old 7 Mar 2011
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Mirrors

Hi Adam,

you might like these

I got that Ram ball mount with the 8mm bolt through it. That replaces the mirror stalk:


Then use a short or medium joint to connect a mirror:




In the event of an off or a crash they will just fold away but are good for ton+, I'm told...

Mirrors from Double Take Mirror - Double Take Mirror - Double Take Mirror - adventure-spec.com: Off-Road Adventure Motorcycling gear,UK,enduro,rally,rallye,touring,rtw,mx

Cheers,
john
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  #135  
Old 10 Mar 2011
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G/S build - looking good!

Coming along nicely! As for indicators, I'm not sure what you are doing at the front. I ended up installing an aluminum guard around the headlight assembly (which is pretty weak) and purchased some F650GS indicators, which have a nice flexible stem so they bend when you crash. I had one bad get off on my G/S before switching to GS forks, and the headlight completely blew up - worth protecting.

As to the engine breather, I tried bypassing that as well, by plugging the end with a little K&N round filter that fit right in the breather hole where it comes into the airbox. the theory being that it will suck up any oil that comes through. Well, I found that to much oil was coming out, and making a mess of the airbox so I reverted back to the stock system. As you say, it works so why mess with it?

Are you going to put on a larger diameter disk up front? Personally I think that makes the most difference to braking power - more then changing the caliper. I have a Rxx11 4 piston rotor ready to go on. Interestingly it has pretty much the same surface area as the stock, dual piston one on the R100GS. which is nice because it doesn't change the size of the master cylinder.
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