1/20/11 update

Got seal puller in the mail today so I can get that seal out of the trans.....if it doesn't work I'll use the same method as the RMS. Although some folks believe this to be a poor method of removal, those same folks are cynical of seeing too many botch jobs. If care is taken, this technique works as good as any method. The key is to be careful :deal Unfortunately the seal puller is umm, massive should be the word....so will use the tried and true method of the screw.

-The driveshaft shaft tool came from JRP. Nice tool that makes an otherwise impossible task very easy. Took a couple minutes and she was apart. I fashioned up some caps for the ends as it tried to run away in shipping. I also took some measurements should I want to make one myself.


I pulled the carbs apart today as well. Boy there are a ton of pieces, and the rings are in tough shape. A lot of crap hiding inside and also evidence that the butterfly rings have NEVER been done as the screws are still peened.





In other news, WA rider was generous enough to send me his old R100GS sidestand to help with the increased height of the bike and saved me the trouble and expense of getting my R80g/s one lengthened and coated. Thank you so much

Will probably transfer the carbs to the Yurt after dipping and thorough rinsing, I need to rebuild them and the cold temps in the shed will probably wreak havoc on the rubber seals if done down there. My wife wil be thrilled as i rebuild them at the kitchen table.

Got done with the cancer-dip..err berrymans chemdip. Great stuff, 20min in the can all the grime was falling off of the carbs. A tooth brush helped, though the bristles started falling out 3/4 of the way down. I also went through 2 sets of gloves as they kept dissolving. :eek1

Now I have the carbs in about 100 pieces.....time to rebuild and figure out how to put back together. :huh

Yeah, damn exhausted. They wouldn't even give me a hand torquing the flywheel bolts Considering a pay cut for them....

The fuel pump was well within spec, but did replace the o-ring, cleaned. degreased, loctited the cover threads, and used a smearing of gasket material as well per clymers instructions.

You should invest in a small ultrasound cleaner... it'll do a much better job and it will clean all the galleries where your toothbrush cant reach... and your cancer-dip wont
See this: carburation

Cheers,
John

__________________
Nostradamus Ate My Hamster

1/21/11 update

I'd love a sonic cleaner but for the little I'd use it not really worth it. Would do a better job though

14" of snow today, so decided to drag the bag'o'carbs to the yurt and assemble them there at the kitchen table next to the wood stove.

Not as bad as I expected regarding reassembly. I just laid the parts out in categories and worked from there. I dremmeled the peened end of the screws down and salvaged the shafts. The rubber was absolute toast and fell apart taking them off. The diaphragms are salvageable for spares. I still need new jets/needle and needle valve, but that's a 1/2 hour at most. I also noticed that one choke housing was all carboned up...not sure why, but's it's clean now.

Easy job, took about 5 hours total, just needed to be methodical.

On the AFTER photos, I mixed up the throttle spring holder between carbs.....it's been fixed


Before:



After:



Progress:






Done


Now how to figure out how to tune these damn things...

1/22/11 update

Not feeling well today so didn't do much. I went over the carbs once more and found that I had installed my enricher doohicky backwards (highly technical term). Fixed that, set the mixture screw out 1 turn, and called it good.

Currently trying to deal with a guy who is super slow and sending my my omega system, r100gs front wheel and rear rack....hopefully someday

If you have not already got it buy the Bing Carburetors manual (about £10.00 in the UK) but as its a U.S. printed manual should be easy and cheaper to get hold of. Gives excellent information and the best guide to manually setting up the carbs you can get.

I second your experience with the Bing Manual
Worth every penny/nickle!
Bing Manual

If you get feed-up with the gooey-situation clogging the atomizer, this is how I got rid of that problem:
Carburetors:
http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/carb.html

http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/carb2.html

Look at the pictures - they tell the full story.

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert

1/23/11 update

Weather calling for -20F tonight. I turn the heater on and if I get it too warm think about 45F ice starts forming on all the metal and tools. l

Well, can't think about the cold. As long as my hands don't lose feeling I'm good to go

Finally pulled that controversial trans input seal, 10 minutes it was out with the slide hammer/screw method. I didn't have a 1" socket so gently and evenly tapped it in with a hard rubber hammer.



Pulled the valve covers to get them powder coated black to hide all the scratches and scuffs. I just like that look. Debating on replacing one seal. I left some of it on the sealing surface. Not really sure if I should.




Also took some advice and painted the timing marks white. All I had was white gelcoat repair...but it's better than nothing


Most most absolutely AGGRAVATING thing was my exhaust header getting stuck on the collector. I spent about 30 minutes hammering, heating, cooling, PB blasting until I just cut it back far enough to get it loose. ARRG!!!

Now it's dented and rough, but at least out. This may explain the difficulty I had with the oil cover this past summer.


Other than this, just some more degreasing of parts


1/24/11 update

Went to do a couple things in the shed today.
-5F out and -2Fin.....

I had bought 4 allen screws for the carb tops, but the ones I got didn't fit, damn.

I did happen to burn my hands holding the carbs...not not by heat, but cold

As much as I would like to tinker down there today. I think I will read Obsessions Die Hard by the woodstove today and drink coffee.

I did happen to sell my massive parabellum that was just like the Grants. I hated to do it, especially after I painted it and made it look so pretty. Now I can fortunately afford the harness!!! I also fortunately got my money back for the not-so-points point can and used it to buy another can from a friend of mine. So, new harness and points can acomin!!

1/25/11 update

-I got the fairing packed up to go today, it'll be on the way to the bayou in the next day or so.

-I ordered my harness and emission hole plugs from Max, I haven't heard from them yet, so I imagine it'll be coming from the fatherland.

-Got a present from the brown santa today it was the r100gs side stand. It should help with the lean for sure. I will probably have a big foot welded on the end to reduce the lean further and give me more footing. I was going to PC the footpegs and side stand, but decided to polish them instead, it'll be a good contrast,

-Heard from the guy who has my Omega charge system, R100gs wheel/rotor and rear rack/locking plate. Says he will ship today after a month of lollygagging....lets see if it happens. Hopefully I will not have to take a ride to southern Ontario....

-Got a bunch of stuff together for the powder coater, as I'm leaving for a couple weeks it should give him a good chance to get it done at his leisure. Hopefully also for a good price.

Still very cold here, just touching the metal parts gives me a cold burn. Winter is never fun working on bikes. Then again, at least there are no mozzies or black flies

1/26/11 update

Loaded the frame and the rest of the black bits into the jeep and headed in town to deliver them to my powder coater. About $300 for all the black on the bike...not too shabby.


Stopped my the Honda dealer for some Moly 60, then NAPA and asked for the stickiest, nastiest, grease they had and they gave me Lucas Red and Tacky #2....wonder what R&T #1 or #3 is like?

Now I need to figure out what percentages to mix these two greases. I may do a fling test with a power drill to test it at some point.


Then off to Sears to replace a couple lost or broken bits I've been meaning to replace.



I love Bangor Maine, The Air National Guard runs these things in the airspace. I've looked down at them while under ATC control in a C152, and today upwards and got to experience the wake turbulence :evil

1/27/11 update.

Day 4 no comments; must be low on the and suggestions are welcome, even if I buggard something up. Better know now than wait until it's back together and it breaks

Well today I went down to the shed, and installed the starter. The manuals were calling for 35ft lbs...i kept tightening and could not reach it....I backed off and dropped some loctite and left it at 25ft lbs. Don't really feel like snapping a bolt. Not sure the issue there?


I also dropped some moly lube on all moving surfaces of the starter, just because I had it.


Sorted my old parts and newer parts to figure out what was going on the bike. The clutch cable was toast, so getting replaced without a doubt.



Installed the brake cam o-rings


Installed that really tight annoying spacer in the back of the engine.


Degreased, scrubbed, sanded, polished and waxed the metal engine mounts rods, foot-pegs, side stand, and hangers.



Cleaned out the monolever bearings, caked with old grungy sandy grease. They had Japanese bearings in there, so they've been serviced before.


Started cleaning out the rear wheel too. Full of brake dust. Cleaned most of that out. Measured the wear lip. Just about 1/2 mm wear average around. I don't have a caliper to properly measure though. Given the Max allowed is 2mm I have about 50% service life left on the hub, or 75k miles.


I also found out that my parts were FINALLY shipped from Ottawa and are currently in transit!!!

No one commented when I did it, but I reused the $2000 O-ring. Decided not to after doing some reading so ordered one from Max.

Congratulations! I have been following your progress every day in repairing the motorcycle. greetings from Poland!

__________________
Regards, Tool

Good to hear from you Tool!! Half the reason for this thread is to keep myself motivated, and also give some others some technical insight into the inner working of these bikes. I appreciate your feedback. THANK YOU!!

1/28/11 update.

I was dreading today. There is nothing worse than cleaning up and shining rims. If I wanted to shine rims, I would have a Harley

Well, some have asked why all the cleaning and shining. The answer is simple, to clean it to start at step one and to be able to easily see ANY issues that might be hidden. Remember the harness? I was cleaning the dust off and was going to rewrap the wires when I found the mess. Now the bike will have a new harness.

In any case. I went the the shed today and shined up the G/S rear wheel and hit it with the protective wax. One thing I find odd is the fact it has a Weinmann rear and Akront front? Not sure if it came from Germany like that? Kind of odd.

Aside from that, I just cleaned the dust and dirt off of the r100gs subframe.

Before


After


To make the task bearable

Keep up the great reporting!

The R80 rims are sure a lot easier to clean than the tubeless R100 rims.

__________________
Ekke Kok

'84 R100RT 141,000 km (Dad's!)
'89 R100GS 250,000 km (and ready for another continent)
'07 R1200GS Adventure 100,000 km (just finished Circumnavigating Asia)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

www.ekke-audrey.ca