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I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Ellen Delis,
Lagunas Ojos del Campo,
Antofalla, Catamarca



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  #1  
Old 28 Jul 2013
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R80 GS Fork removal question
I used to have an R80RT. I know how to remove the forks on that. Looked at my R80 GS (Paralever model) and wasnt able to get past the slotted fork nut in the picture. Anyone have any experience of these? Do I just need to undo the hex in the middle and will that loosen the slotted nut? I also need an 18mm hex bit so will have to wait to try that. I need to open it up properly to inspect internals.
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Old 28 Jul 2013
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Here's the pics
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R80 GS Fork removal question-2013-07-28-13.44.06-large  

R80 GS Fork removal question-2013-07-28-13.43.52-large  

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Old 28 Jul 2013
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You remove the slotted nut with a screwdriver and a hammer.
Normally you don't need a 18mm hex if you remove the allenbolt after you have removed the fork from the bike.
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Old 29 Jul 2013
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Thanks. Tried that yesterday knocking it anti-clockwise but it wouldn't budge. All I was doing was making dents. Do you know if there are any tools to fit the slotted nut? I have tried the obvious searches online but no luck. It's probably not been off since leaving the factory.
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Old 29 Jul 2013
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I've never seen a tool that fit, but it exists....
You can try to soak it with wd40 and apply some heat. It might be smart to raise the fork legs a few mm to make sure the nuts don't bind to the triple clamp.
I've removed several of the nuts without major problems, but they might get dented.
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Old 29 Jul 2013
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Will break out the Landrover hammer and give that a go. Just wanted to be sure that it was necessary before going further with removing them. Thanks.
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Old 29 Jul 2013
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A Serie III hammer would be Perfect
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Old 30 Jul 2013
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Rather than bugger up the nut using a hammer and chisel buy the correct size c-spanner and get the nut off and back on again without inflicting too much damage on it.
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Old 30 Jul 2013
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Thanks Mark, I've been unsuccessfully using my rear shock C spanner. Seems to fit ok. I thought I'd give it another go this morning and moved the stanchion up to get better purchase. Turns out it is the steel indicator assembly that is bonded to the nut, not the nut to the stanchion as I had thought. I can get the nut off now at least, service the forks and can deal with the indicator after.

Thanks for your help guys. Saved me from using the Series III hammer and it's inevitable consequences.
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