The Achievable Dream 5-part series - the definitive guide on DVD for planning your motorcycle adventure. Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
Gear Up! is a 2-DVD set, 6 hours! Which bike is right for me? How do I prepare the bike? What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers! "This DVD will save you a fortune!"See the trailer here!
So you've done it - got inspired, planned your trip, packed your stuff and you're on the road! This section is about staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure. And crossing borders, war zones or oceans!
On the Road! is 5.5 hours of the tips and advice you need to cross borders, break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Tire Changing!Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
"It has me all fired up to go out on my own adventure!" See the trailer here!
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Achievable Dream The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour DVD series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to DVD!" MCN UK.
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I have a well travelled 1991 r100g with 95000 miles on the clock. The oil presure light has started coming on after the bike has done a few miles. it is only on up to around 1500-2000rpm then it goes out. apart from that the bike runs fine and no funny noises, at least non that were not there before. This has only started happening after a recent oil and filter change, but that could just be coincidence. just to be sure, i have changed the oil again and checked the filter is fitted correctly but everything seens fine. i also changed the pressure switch just in case it was a faulty switch. the light is still coming on. any suggestions on what to do next, short of stripping the engine?
grateful for any suggestions
the light should not come on at all after starting unless possibly idling ( 1000 rpm) on a very old motor in very hot conditions. never at 1500 rpm.
Just a small thing, it is the oil light and not the charging light?
sometimes the pressure relief spring breaks, or the assembly comes loose. I would take out the filter and have a good look in there. also check no old bits of old O ring have been left behind. I am pretty sure you bike is later than the $2000 o ring models ( unlike mine )
you could also either ask motobins.com or post a message here B O X E R W O R K S . C O M | Dedicated to 50's through 80's BMW Motorcycles
The oil presure light has started coming on after the bike has done a few miles. it is only on up to around 1500-2000rpm then it goes out.
Do not operate the engine while this fault remains.
Disconnect the oil pressure switch and check the oil light does not come on (with the ignition on and engine kill switch err in the position ready for starting - the battery light should be on .. but oil light off). If the oil light is on then you have a wiring problem - a short some where between the oil light and the switch ..
If that is ok ...
I'd re re check the oil filter.. even put in new gaskets and shims around the filter. Still no good .. take it to a mechanic .. on a truck. Have them test the oil pressure ( gauge - real numbers) and see what they think. If you have been operating the bike with this fault you could be up for another engine.. $$$
There might be a lot of reasons that the oil-pressure is low, but because it happened after an oil-change it’s likely to believe it is related to this.
First of all, the white o-ring inside the cover serves to purposes:
1) It seals so the oil would not leak out of the cover
2) It seals so the oil would not leak from the canister (the pipe you put the oil-filer inside) to the sump.
#1 is pretty easy to spot because there will leak oil around the cover, #2 is impossible to see and it will reduce the oil-pressure.
The O-ring has to be compressed to work; it is 4mm thick and should be compressed to3.0 – 3.3 mm. The way to measure this is:
If you measure more then 3.3 mm you have to use shim(s) to increase the compression on the o-ring (shim=0.3mm). If you use the papergasket you reduce the compression on the o-ring and you might get a bigger internal leak (#2) but you want know it!
If you measure less then 3.0 mm (not likely) then it’s okay to use the papergasket (or you might crush the o-ring) but otherwise don’t use it because it camouflages internal leaks.
It’s smart to change the o-ring once in while.
So why bother about this when your engine has been working for 95000 miles?
Because the canister tends to move over time, mine has moved twice and the last time the distance was 4.6mm!!
If you have this problem (or want peace in mind) you can get a new canister made in the correct length so it bottoms in the engine (no place for movement).
Of course before you do this you check that you have filled the right amount of oil with the correct viscosity and of course that it is the oil-pressure warning light that lights up.
Other possible solutions could be:
Worn oil pump
Worn housing around oil pump
Front main bearing out of position
Worn bearings (main and conrod)
Faulty cam-chain tensioner
Most of these errors develop over time, so I would check the canister and o-rings first.
I like to fit an oil-pressure gauge on all my vehicles and see the variations over time. Then I know what’s normal and can start to worry if the pressure drops. It’s hard to know afterwards, you might measure 3 bar at a specific rpm and temperature but how do you know what’s right?
thanks for the comprehensive replies!
I've done plent of filter changes before but I will check the canister/oil filter area again over the weekend just to be sure and clean the sump filter in the last hope that I can get away without a big bill. if not its off to the workshop (by truck) and brace myself for the bill. bugger!
I stopped running it when the light came on so maybe I will be lucky.
thanks again, i will post the outcome.
Had a good poke around the oil filter today and found the oil filter bypass valve has come unscrewed, almost to the point of coming off,( it’s a sort of donut shaped screw with a little bearing on a spring gubbins). I have screwed in back in and everything seems to be ok, the oil pressure light is going out on starting and staying out. I guess the spring wasn’t being compressed enough, allowing the oil to circulate without passing through the filter, causing a drop in pressure. Has any one ever come across the bypass valve causing a problem, I have never heard of anyone having a problem with it before!
I have tightened it all the way in, but I am not sure if this is right as there seems to be a line marked in the casing that may have to be line up, but I can’t see any reason why this should be the case. I can’t find any information anywhere on the valve. If anyone has any knowledge of this please let me know.
Had a good poke around the oil filter today and found the oil filter bypass valve has come unscrewed, almost to the point of coming off,( it’s a sort of donut shaped screw with a little bearing on a spring gubbins). I have screwed in back in and everything seems to be ok, the oil pressure light is going out on starting and staying out.
Glad you found it. is always worth testing this bit when you change the filter, as I said they have a habit of coming off, sometimes the spring breaks. It is one of teh few parts I would recommend carrying on a rtw trip.
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