Ignition – Airhead
 

The beancan starts to wear out on my airhead and I think I’m ready for a system that is not based on springs and weights.
Does anyone have experience with the system from Silent Hektik or other systems?

SILENT HEKTIK Automotive Hard- & Software - Home

http://www.silent-hektik.com/LiMa_3b.jpg

I've fitted Boyer Bransden Micro Power ignition with their own high output miniature coils to my 78 R80/7.
Fairly easy to fit, smooth running, 15000kms no problems, set once & never touch again :thumbup1:

But of course if it does break in the middle of nowhere :cursing:, not quite as easy to fix as good old points & coil(s) !!

the points can be kept on for back up on that german system. I cant read german but it looks similar to the Omega system. The Omega system is only $230 compared to the $440 for the other one.

Thanks!
 

Yes I think it’s a nice option to keep the old system as a backup.

The bike is pretty new (in airhead terms) so I can’t find anything that fits from Boyer Bransden.

I have looked at the Omega system but I don’t like the way it reduces airflow to the alternator and I don’t like to put more electronic components behind the generator cover then I have to. It gets pretty hot in there; it certainly makes it worse that my oilcooler is mounted in front of the cover.
The Omega system has both a (red) circuit board and a booster/amplifier behind the generator cover.

Generally the Silent Hektik system and the Omega system are pretty much the same (crankshaft mounted, no moving parts, 16 selectable advance curves, you can keep the old system as a backup) but the system from Silent Hektik place the electronic under the tank.

The curves differ a lot between the models.
Omega starts to advance the ignition before 1000 RPM (which I find very odd).

It would have been fun to test the triple-spark system from SH to see if there is any improvement. Guess it will mess with my rev-counter….

I will be doing the enduralast, That will move the diode board out to the tank. I wish the omega stuff can go out to the tank also. That would be nice to eliminate most of the electrics inside of the engine and move them higher.

If you realy want you can move the diodeboard to under the tank. There is a lot of place available:

http://www.actiontouring.com/pic/el.jpg

(Important note: the wall have the same color as the bike)

Wow, I think I am using a different tank with room above the frame to shove stuff.

elektronic ignition
 

Greetins all. Interesting thread. Have a '96 R 80 GS, and am very interested in a reliable electronic ignition, especially if I can keep the original system as a backup. Does anyone know if it is practical to switch back under field conditions, as I'm planning a long trip. I don't have enough German to see if this mod. increases the wattage as well, as I also want more electricity. Nasty rumours around that stock alternators and diode board are not robust enough.
Peter, in Oslo

How easy it is to switch between the two systems depends a bit on how you install the wiring. On a SH-system it can be done like this:

1) Disconnect power from new ignitionmodule
2) Disconnect leads to coil from new ignitionmodule
3) Connect the plug on the old ignitionmodule
4) Connect leads to coil from new ignitionmodule

All connections can be made by plugs and all connections are placed under the tank. It is possible to wire it so you can change between the systems via a switch – but I don’t see the need for that.
The stock system is very reliable so I wouldn’t say this upgrade is necessary unless your bike has high mileage or you are looking for performance.

This modification doesn’t improve the generators effect. There are other ways to do it but some get in conflict with the new ignitionsystem. Personally I don’t need it; the stock system is good – for me.

I changed my diodeboard for a Tunderchild (I think) and have used it for 120kkm without problems, I have the old one as a spare part.

I have had two rotor failures:
-First failure at 110kkm, installed a second hand from a policebike in Zambia (unknown mileage). I knew about the problem a few weeks before it broke.
-Second failure at 188kkm, I knew there was problems for at least a month before it broke.

If the rotor breaks you can drive at least one day if you have a healthy battery and keep your lights off. (Always check that gen-light lights up when you turn on ignition and install a voltmeter)

IMHO the charging system is very reliable if you keep it in good shape and install a few additional wires.

AliBaba, Lørenskog

reply to AliBaba
 

Thanks for well written advice. Emerald Isle (in Taiwan!) do a 400 W upgrade of BMW alternator which I have been recomended. Do you have any experience of this, do I have to substitute with heavier gauge wiring?
Peter

I don't know the Emerald Isle system or the wiring they use. Basically the battery gets charged through the same cable that runs the starter, and that cable can easily manage 400W.

But where do you want to plug in you accessories? And what kind of accessories do you need?

Do you have a web address for that Peter?

John

emerald island
 

Greetings Redboots: The net address for Emerald Island is" repro-works.com", and their e-mail is emerald.island@msa.hinet.net. They come well recomended, but I personally have never used them or their product before.
Greetings AliBaba: I need the extra wattage for heated grips, two powerfull hi-beams, GPS, charging assorted electrical items, and maybe heated clothing and boots if I can afford them. To quote May West, "too much of a good thing is...just wonderful"
Peter

It looks like their kit includes a rotor, stator and a new diode board. The rotor is a weak link and with increased capacity it gets even weaker (in theory).
The nice thing about the original rotor is that you can get it all over the world but it is possible that he original rotor also fits this system (with reduced capacity).

The stock system is up to heated grips, GPS and charging of various items but you might run into problems with heated cloths AND additional lights.
As I see it heated clothes are nice but not really needed. You need to carry extra clothes anyway (if your bike brakes down or the clothes fail).

For lights you might consider HID, it requires approx 50% of the wattage and with a double set I guess it will be extremely good, and expensive.
Personally I installed a circular 180mm headlight and I’m very satisfied.

i believed the enduralast rotar is basically a ducati one which can be purchased in most countries.