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  #1  
Old 25 Apr 2005
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Going off without warmin'up???

Hi everyone,

have had Japanese bikes all my life but recently been blessed with a GS1150ADV and I just can't help suspecting of what they say
in the (quite basic,I should add)owners manual
about "not needing to warm up your engine prior to roll"?,even sugesting in between the lines that if you do,you'll be doing worse...
It's not that you should wait till you've
had all normal bars on the temp° indication
but then,for how long?
What about using the spring loaded "air" manette on the left side of your handlebar?
souldn't it be used as little as possible or
should you start to roll and cancel it later on the road?
Would really apreciate any expert advice on this one.
By the way,GREAT BIKE!!!,guess I'll ride for
the rest of my remainig life.
Dogo.

VillaTaormina@hotmail.com
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  #2  
Old 25 Apr 2005
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15-30 seconds is enough warm up for all vehicles - so long as it runs adequately/safely, it's good to go almost immediately. That's NOT to say it's ok to hammer it - drive it gently for a few miles/km until it's fully warmed before beating on it.

Plenty of experts will tell you extended warmup is either bad for the bike, or at least a waste of time, money and pollution.


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  #3  
Old 25 Apr 2005
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...just like Grant says above. Especially ai-cooled engines. Most fuel-injected engines now run so lean that they take forever to warm-up at idle. I once heared a story of a man who tried to kill himself in his garage running his Pontiac Firefly, but the car didn't produce enough carbon monoxide at idle to get the job done! Probably an urban myth so please don't try this at home...
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  #4  
Old 25 Apr 2005
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Many say the proper warm-up is the key of bike's engine reliability.

I usually wait on idle at least if 1 bar arrives on RID of my 1100GS on chocke and then start gently riding, not beating it until i see at least 3 bars. It takes quate a lot time to get 1 bar on RID from completely cold engine and if the wheather is cold too - about 1-3 minutes, but if i'm no hurry usually.

Cheers, Margus
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  #5  
Old 26 Apr 2005
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Thank you gentelmen,for sharing your experience
with a "just born BMWer"!

I guess neither "8 nor 80" as we say it in my
place!
Will start it up,"feel it" and when I think she´s ready,
ryde away smothly...

By the way Margus,I was planning to ride all
the way up to Talin nxt spring of 06,but I guess with the time availabble will just do some time in Warsaw.Any info that I could use?

In the wind soon,

Dogo.
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  #6  
Old 26 Apr 2005
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The 'choke' is simply a fast idle. The EFI sets the fuel mixture, and it does set it a little rich at low engine temperatures and speeds so it is best to ride off straight away - the extra fuel tends to wash the oil off the rings and increases engine ware.

As note above - don't ride off with large amounts of throttle or rapid accelleration, a little gental riding is what your after before the engine warms up somewhat.

I usally start riding within 60 seconds of the bike starting.
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  #7  
Old 27 Apr 2005
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Dear Frank,

thks for your reply,as I get it, it is advisable to reduce the use of the Choke to those real cold start-ups and still keep it to a minimum;
Since I use my Bike on a daily basis,I normally start it up the nxt day with the choke fully backward (on),and as soon as it starts,adjust the choke to that medium position just to cancel it a few seconds later before starting to roll gently..

hopin'to be doin' the correct thing.

in the wind soon,
Dogo

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  #8  
Old 27 Apr 2005
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dogo:

By the way Margus,I was planning to ride all
the way up to Talin nxt spring of 06,but I guess with the time availabble will just do some time in Warsaw.Any info that I could use?
Lemme know if you come. Gladly share some info about Estonia! You can get my e-mail from my profile.

Cheers, Margus
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  #9  
Old 6 May 2005
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Dogo:
I saw many replies on the warmup procedure but not about the "preload" of the rear shock spring.
I had a 1150GSA and liked very much the device on the left side of the bike to load or release the spring.

Regularly I used it in Normal position where the red marks are.
But when I was getting close to fast and smooth twisties, while on a straight, I reached the knob and released the throtle (so to transfer weight to the front and make the job easier and faster) and applied 2 or 3 turns clockwise to make the rear susp harder. I then enjoyed the sporty and more secure feeling of the bike on fast turns (it was like riding on rails).

Then if the road turns bumpy or long straights follow I put the knob back to the original position or sometimes softer so I can tide a comfortable (big Lincon Town Car) vehicle.

Hope this helps
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  #10  
Old 8 May 2005
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Thanks Hmoro
for sharing that experience .
Find it quite usefull ,cause I'll be travelling soon with a friend on the rear.
Why don´t these guys buy themselfs a Bike??

nice rides,
Dogo.
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