Gearbox oil-inlet-screw totally messed on r1200gs 2011
 

Hi Folks,
are these the right english words for the screw you have to open when you change oil in the gearbox? gearbox oil inlet screw ?
BMW r1200gs model 2011
The one on my bike is totally messed, no key will fit anymore to open, and way too tight. To try it with any pliers only scratches off the very very soft metal the screw is made of. Just simple iron? Aluminum?
I dont know anymore how thick/deep the screw is, so I am hesitating to drill holes inside.
Did anyone have had this problem and solved it by welding any screw, nut or tool on it?

Waiting for the right hint ...,
Thomas

Hi.

Do you mean the gearbox (at the front) or are you talking about the Final Drive ??

If it is the gearbox , do you mean the 'Drain' (To empty) or the Fill hole ??


If the bolt is destroyed you can drift it lose with a hammer and chisel or large screwdriver. You need to replace the bolt though. It will be hard to put back in tight.

Ted

A good photo will help a lot to help you!!! :cool4:

Hi Folks,
Gearbox front, filling screw.
Thomas

Thomas
That screw it’s made in very soft aluminum and could get very tide on the transmission case. The right tool to use it's (if I remember well) a 10mm Allen key (also known as Hex or Inbus) and better if you use a socket. Sometimes happen than someone who isn’t paying attention try to use a Torks key and they strip the hex shape. I have manage to take off some of this screws using a 11mm Allen socket made by myself (isn’t a normal size)with just a piece of 11mm hex bar bought in a metal shop and a normal 11mm hex socket.
Stop to scratch it and don’t drill holes inside!!! Is better to warm it like with a heat-gun and smash it few times with a plastic hammer.
Then use a new screw and don’t forget the cooper washer…
Regards

Hi Javkap,
heating it, ok, but smashing it with a plastic hammer? Do you mean breaking it in pieces? To loosen it with a few beats and then using the 11mm allen? Will not work, since no allen or whatever tool will fit in the messed female anymore, its round now.
But ok, now I know its aluminum ... .

Thomas

Hammer and chisel.... Drift it round. Done it many times on these bolts. Or find someone who can tig weld an aluminium nut onto it.

Its an 8mm hex.. Well, it was !!!

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

sorry for the late final "report" of the solution ...
chisel and hammer didnt work, I dont know why, and I had to file it down on two sides, (and a millimeter of the gearbox ...) to liberate the pressure. But thanks guys for the advice. Next time soft aluminum bolts start to give up they will be replaced right away, (if there is a spare one ...).
T.

You are not alone Thomas! I just had to deal with that same problem but in the sump which added a level of awkwardness.
I used a mini chisel, small screwdriver, lots of patience, many cups of tea and lot of tap-tap-tapping- It works. Patience is the key as are the focussed repetitive :hammer: You've got to love aluminium.

A small tip- I have been successful in the past by drilling two opposite holes in the plug( as shown on your image edited) This would have given you purchase and the ability to apply an opposite force simultaneously using long nosed needle pliers.
A freeze spray can also help.

Or having an AC Tig welder..... :smartass:

No room in my tool tube for one of those Ted!:stupid:

Mine only weighs 50kg... Where's your sense of adventure.

Okay, the 70kg gas bottle might get in the way if you're going to start splitting hairs.

I hate when that happens
 

I had the same thing on another bike a while back(not bmw).
Spoilt an otherwise good day !

Hammer and chisel and lots a swear words (mainly beginning with the letter "F") was my weapon of choice.

I replaced it with a brass sump plug from halfords ( UK motor shop) They sell several sizes, lucky one was the same(ish). I was not 100% sure what the long term implications would be changing an aluminium for brass plug. A further 35K miles and all was good.

Brass Plug?
 

I suspect the reason an aluminum plug is OEM is due to the thermal expansion qualities of aluminum. An aluminum plug will expand to a greater degree than brass when subjected to heat. Thereby, increasing the sealing qualities of the plug to motor and thereby helping to reduce seepage and/or leaks. Brass will not provide the same thermal dynamic qualities. Best to stay with the OEM aluminum style plug(s) and be mindful of the torque value for the plug. Always best to start with the minimum recommended torque. Drain plugs are not plugs one wants to be guessing "this is about tight enough" torque value. Or "its tight, but I'm going to snug it a little tighter for because tighter is better, right?" Nope! Over-tighten an aluminum plug and the thermal dynamic qualities come into play again and it will be impossible to remove the plug before stripping the 8mm hex key slot; as seen above.