here's one i did earlier
A straightforward job. Which can be done in as little time as 10 minutes. No cycle parts i.e. tank etc, need be removed
The tools needed
Start by removing the small plastic cap on the top of the fork leg.
The nut underneth can be corroded, so use a hex socket and not a bi-hex if you can
Place a 22mm spanner on the flats at the top of the leg , under the top yolk.
And the 14mm socket onto the top nut. And undo the top nut.
With the nut removed, push the fork slider down and out of the top yolk.
The front end will be all sloppy, allowing you to push the bars around and out of the way, and the front wheel can be moved in any direction for conveniance.
Pull the fork slider up and out of the stanchion. Wipe the leg as it's removed, as it will have oil residue on it.
Prise out the dust cover - These can be split and deformed, so look before doing the job and have a new one ready if needed.
Underneth you'll see the seal circlip. Prise free with a small screwdriver.
With a seal puller, or similar instrument, pullout the old seal. This is easiest done with my puller by pushing the fork leg as far forward as you can . Remember, the front wheel can moved to almost any position.
There is a washer under the seal. Pick it out,and clean it - Again, this can be corroded.
New seal - Top
New seal - underneth
Locate the new seal in place with your fingers, you can push it home a fair way to start it off
Then with a correct sized socket ( i use a 1" 3/8ths) you want it to run around the outside of the seal, but be small enough to fit inside the slider lips. Fit an extension bar onto the socket, and tap home the new seal.
Refit the circlip .
Refit the dust seal, just a push fit.
Then with a 3mm allen key, undo the small air bleed bolt on top of the fork stanchion and remove it.
making sure you don't lose or damage the "o" ring on the bolt
Push the stanchion carefully back into the slider -remember the front wheel forks can moved around for the best position
Then pull the stanchion back up, so it's in line with the top yolk, in the same position where it will be when it's in place - Now keep the stanchion in place, and replace the air vleed screw.
Now position the fork stanchion back in place in the top yolk, and refit the nut.
Hold the stanchion with the 22mm spanner and do up the 14mm nut, replace the top yolk plastic cover. Job done.