BWM R80GS - gearbox - looked in 2nd gear

**Jurgen** · #1 31 Jul 2002

Hello,
I am stuck in India in second gear. My gearbox does not want to change the gears anymore. Could this be due to the selector spring broken or is this an indication of something bigger?
Any help would be great.
Jürgen

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I am rolling again. It was in deed the little selector spring - I changed that one only 50.000km ago - not realy good. The spring was not worn simply broken. As this was the second repair on the gearbox - flansch as well as housing was easy to take of - with some special tools a la India I got the bike on the road within 8h. I am rolling again with all five gears.

[This message has been edited by Jurgen (edited 02 August 2002).]

**Grant Johnson** · #2 31 Jul 2002

Almost certainly the selector spring is broken. It's a common occurrence.

To test, turn the bike upside down and try shifting. (The spring lifts the selector UP against the shifter mechanism, when the spring breaks it falls down)

It's also POSSIBLE but very difficult to reach in through the filler plug hole with a wire and lift the shifter up to shift. The shifter arm is about 50mm in and behind a plate.

It's not too difficult to disassemble the box and replace this spring. All you need for parts is the spring, 4 bolts for the driveshaft flange (should always be replaced) and the cover gasket.

The hardest part is getting the driveshaft flange off. If you need more info post here.

------------------
Grant Johnson

Seek, and ye shall find.
------------------------

One world, Two wheels.
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

**maverick** · #3 2 Aug 2002

Hi,

On the same topic of gearbox issues, any rough idea of what parts I would need to replace when rebuilding my gearbox? R100gs has 58000 miles on and don't think the gearbox has ever been openend. Gears get very "sticky" from time to time and I have considering taking it out and redoing the whole lot!

Thanks

**Jurgen** · #4 3 Aug 2002

I simply exchanges all bearings and springs - without even checking - I wanted to be sure and still you can never be ;-). I also put in a lower 1st and a longer 5th gear wheel. Best you should do - if you have the impression gears already go in difficult (which to some extend is normal with the BMW gearbox) open it up and check out if you see some wearing signs and exchange accordingly. Sounds not of much help, sorry.

[This message has been edited by Jurgen (edited 02 August 2002).]

[This message has been edited by Jurgen (edited 02 August 2002).]

**Grant Johnson** · #5 3 Aug 2002

I'd agree with Jurgen - change all the bearings, circlips and the springs at around 60,000 mile intervals. The usual failure on these boxes is a bearing lets go and takes other stuff with it. damhik. 60,000 miles is a generally agreed rebuild point.

The selector spring is a sore point - they can fail on the first use or 500,00 miles later - no way of knowing. Carry a spare and cross your fingers.

"Sticky" shifts is kinda normal - make sure you're not shifting at too low rpm - they like to be revving when shifting.

You can also try synthetic oil, sometimes this helps - but only after 5000 miles on the gearbox.

------------------
Grant Johnson

Seek, and ye shall find.
------------------------

One world, Two wheels.
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

**Jurgen** · #6 3 Aug 2002

Another tip:
I replaced the Output Shaft Oil Seal for three times. First because I rebuild the gearbox. Second, because the seal was leaking and third, because it was leaking again but now I finally know how to solve it:

There is a little notch at the top of the output shaft. This was designed for the four speed gearbox and with heavy load and usage it can happen that with the five speed gear box oil comes out of this notch. If you use synthetic oil this may also be more likely to leak at this notch.

Problem: Oil coming out of the output shaft oil seal.

Solution: Use some silicon to close it when fitting the new seal.

Find picture @ http://jhomann.tripod.com/bmw_r80gs-output_shaft.htm

------------------
Jürgen

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private:" TARGET=_blank>http://www.2-mad.com
private:</A> http://www.jhomann.de

**Grant Johnson** · #7 4 Aug 2002

Jurgen,

Depending on which GS / G/S you have, this may be a BAD idea.

The notch isn't just for the 4 speeds, it's also for the monolevers. (G/S)

The driveshaft with oil in it has to be able to breathe too, and it's only path for breathing is supposed to be through that notch and out the gearbox breather bolt, so it must be left clear.

The PARALEVER (GS) which has a dry (no oil) driveshaft, is SUPPOSED to have that notch sealed with silicone just as you mention.

I believe you have a 1990 paralever GS - so yes, the notch should be sealed.

------------------
Grant Johnson

Seek, and ye shall find.
------------------------

One world, Two wheels.
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com