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  #1  
Old 8 Oct 2002
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barrell studds

Any one with experience with barrell studds getting not so firmly seated, i.e. a play can be detected, a sort of rocking of the studd is possible.

Solutions suggested to me so far are:
* swap engine (bottom end)
* helicoil/recoil
* locktight
* hardchrome the studd threads
* close your eyes - bolt back on the barrells and heads, let it play and pray.

What are the risks / hazards ?
The best answer I have so far "it can be very bad" - exploding engine or ?


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  #2  
Old 8 Oct 2002
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I would definitely go the thread repair method. Either the heli-coil or thread inserts will work, best to decide which depending on how much material there is around the threads.

And then I would use loctite to make sure the stud stays, and torque the head bolts carefully to slightly less than factory spec. I believe spec is 25-27 foot-pounds, and the word is that 24 is plenty. Also, do it in three stages, and use a good torque wrench!

Be VERY careful that the two top studs still pass oil to the heads!

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  #3  
Old 8 Oct 2002
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I had 2 studs pull out. 1 on each side.
I now have timeserts installed.
http://www.timesert.com/
Like Grant said you must be sure to open the oil passage. My local dealer says that the max torque is 26 ftlbs (35.25nm)
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  #4  
Old 10 Oct 2002
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I have had 3x studs do this. The first time I had a thread similar to a helicoil, but more like a rivet with a thread inside fitted. I wouldn't advise this as you have to drill down the side for the oilway. This can also be blocked by the o-ring. The 2nd and third (both happened together) I had helicoiled in Cairo. The advantage was that the helicoil can be set further back and not impede the oilway.

Either way, once you have the bike together, fill with oil and run for a minute or so with the rocker covers off. Oil should run from the rockers. If not, you have blocked one of the oilways.

Gareth

[This message has been edited by Gareth Jones (edited 09 October 2002).]
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Old 10 Oct 2002
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Whatever you do, don’t run your engine with the valve covers off !! The pressure is high and in no time flat you’ll create a vacuum, due to no oil getting back to the pan through the pushrod tubes. Bye bye engine shortly after. Not to mention the mess.

If you want to check the oil flow, remove the covers, put the bike in 5th gear and turn the tire by hand, sitting behind the bike and hand-over-hand pulling the tire upwards, as if you were riding. After about 20 seconds of bloody hard work, you’ll see the oil seeping at the studs, the 4 top ones, at which point you know you have oil flow. Don’t forgot to put engine oil in first … don’t ask me how I know.


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