External fuel filter on 1150GSA

[Cords and Aash]

We have a 2004 1150GS Adv and are planning a 5 month trip around South America later this year. A fellow traveller we met in Australia on a 1150 GS fitted with an Adventure tank is also going to SA and had removed the fuel filter from inside the tank, and mounted it externally so he could change it easily if it became blocked in SA. Whilst I didn't get all the details, he apparently ran a bit of fuel hose between the fittings inside the tank in place of the filter.

I assume it needs the plate on the underside to be removed to get to the fuel pump and filter. I have heard that removing this plate can be a bit tricky with the O-ring easily damaged and the studs can be broken off when tightening them during re-assembly.
Has anyone else done this? If so, are there any other details I should be aware of.
Is it worth the effort?
Thanks,
Calds

[Steve Pickford]

Literally just finished (2 hours ago) replacing the fuel filter on my 2001 1150GS fitted with an Adventure tank.

Straight forward job made easy with a bit of preparation, took me 30 minutes start to finish (done it before though). Buy the two new O'rings (access plate on side of tank, other for filler cap) in advance as the old ones will have expanded & will be too big to reuse immediately. Keep the old ones as spares as they'll shrink in time and can be re-used.

External filters are easy enough although I've not bothered. Some like to attach them to the bike near the r/h hand throttle body - I think this is a little exposed. If you've got a non-ABS bike, best place to locate the filter is beneath the tank, wrapped in some foam in the space where the ABS pumps would normally be.

If you remove the access plate, you'll see that there's a 2-3" straight length of fuel pipe at one end of the fuel filter & a 4-5" length at the other end (180 degree bend). Remove both & replace with a 10-12" length of fuel pipe suitable for high pressure injection systems. Worth buying a handful of 12mm Jubilee / Hose clips when buying the fuel pipe as you'll need a couple to replace the crimped on BMW clamps at either end of the new fuel pipe.

You'll need a second length of fuel pipe, attached at one end to the outlet spigot on the access plate and leading to the quick fuel disconnects (if not fitted, now's the time to do so). Length of this fuel is determined by your choice of location.

If fitting quick fuel disconnects, have them pointing in opposite directions to prevent them being connected the wrong way round:



Whenever you remove the tank, always grease the O'rings on the quick fuel disconnects to prevent them perishing & causing fuel leaks. I carry a spare connector & a few O'rings.

Wait till you're low on fuel i.e. low fuel light on before starting.

I've heard of the 5mm access plate studs snapping. Grease the threads on refitting, tighten sequentially & don't overtighten them.

If using an Adventure tank, now's a good time to fit another right angled quick fuel disconnect to the left hand side of the crossover pipe, saves pulling it through on removal & pushing it back over the engine when re-fitting the tank.

[lkyphl]

I would suggest using BMW fuel line, available in lengths from BMW dealers.
After relocating my filter to above the RH throttle body the aftermarket "high pressure petrol fuel injected" hose cracked in no time. The BM hose is the only hose my local (BM only) bike shop has seen without cracks.
Also, use stainless steel worm-drive hose clamps if you can get 'em.

Phil

[Frank Warner]

Originally Posted by lkyphl

Also, use stainless steel worm-drive hose clamps if you can get 'em.

Can be had for your bm dealer - older K series bikes used them - in the same aplication ... probably cost a lot more than those disposable thingys.