95 BMW R1100GS died
 

I was riding my bike only for about 1/2 a mile when it just died. No symptoms just sputtered for about 5-10 seconds then quit totally. My first steps in diagnosis was to take a plug out. I am getting no spark and no fuel. I can hear the fuel pump start and it turns over good. I think it is an electrical problem but don't really know where to start. I have looked at fuses but that didn't really reveal much.

Thank for any suggestions

Russell

I drive a 1200GS and its a 04 model so the same things might not be relevant but, my mechanic told me that the following three problems will go

on top of the plugs there are plug on coils, if one went it would feel like the bike had dirty petrol.

Around the ignition is a a ring called EWS , its an anti theft thing, if it goes the bike will stop dead. If that happpens get a new one pull out the lead and plug them into the new one.
Put the key back into the old ignition and hold the new ews close to the key when you start it.

the third thing is a reducer on top of the fuel pump, it is to bring the voltage from 12 v down to 5v, if it goes the bike would die, but you say the fuel pump is running so its not that.

again i know my bike is a different model, but maybe it sheds some light

Figured it out
 

It was the hall sensor on the front of the bike. I took off the cover and the blot holding the altenator sensor and and the sensor was almost totally loose. Here is a link in case someone has a similar problem http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf . The sensor is supposed to be a common problem, that or its wiring. And i think it applies to alot of different year models

Thanks for your help

Russell

no prob glad you got it sorted

gary

And a note for those who will have a problem with it: usually it's the wiring on the sensor plate, sensor's malfancton is rare. Usually it's the contacts that get "loose" because of engine's regular heating/cooling process per long term usage of the bike (it's in the contact with crank case). Reweld the contacts and in the most cases you're back on the road again.

Always mark its position very precisely before you take it off tho! It's very critical for the ignition timing when puting it back on.

Ride safe!

Mine just died?
 

I had to get a tow for the first time since buying my 1100 GS new in 98'. I have 70K miles on it. I have never had an issue with the bike, ever. I had washed the bike the day before. Started and it ran fine for about 10 miles. Sputtered and then a 1/4 mile later, out for good? Charged the battery after the tow, got home that night, still nothing. The next day nothing also. The following day I checked the RID, fuel pump, side stand switch, and the clutch switch. All good. Hit the starter and she fired right up??? What the....??? :confused1: So much for the 9 volt battery/Hall Sensor test? The hall sensor is apparently working now? I have not looked at the wiring at all but I am going to have a peak tomorrow.

If you've checked your plugs and plug wiring, have reset Motronic, sidestand switch, no bad fuel etc common fault finding diagnosis then...

Probably Hall sensor plate as well. Looking around GS knowledgebases and when there's Hall sensor plate problem mentioned - cold start OK, warm engine problems are pretty common - meaning the Hall sensor warms up with the engine, metal expands and emphasizes the cable connection problems Hall sensors have, microscopic cracks in welds or just bad connections. Typical electric stuff - works, not works, works, works, not, etc

Probably the best if you reweld (with electrical weld that is :)) all the connections on the Hall sensor plate and check all the wiring going into Motoronic. Also on 1100 clean up the Hall sensor socket under the tank, those connection pins may be also corroded (on 1150s the Hall sensor wires go directly into motronic, w/o socket inbetween, so I've heard).

NB! Precisely scratch/mark the current Hall plate position on the crankcase before you remove it!!! Otherwise you'll have wrong ignition timing later ;)

One other thing that may cause the irrational behavior in engine work in terms of cold/warm engine difference can be faulty a ignition coil that changes resistance when warmed up (on most bikes it's directly above the engine). Check the two resistances with ohm-meter (or any multimeter) on the coil that they are within the allowed spec.

Thanks Margus
 

You have pointed out several other things that I have not thought about but need to check. I didn’t check to see if I was getting spark when it wouldn’t start. Definitely getting spark now! I did warm the bike for 10 minutes or so. Ran it up to 6 bars on the RID for a minute to get the temp up. Runs great! No issues? I know I still have the original plug wires on my bike and will check the coil as you mention also.

The only thing I am uncertain of in your comments is; “have reset Motronic”??? I’m not familiar with this? Can you give me a hint on that one without having to do a bunch of typing? I have been doing all of my on maintenance for 30k miles or so. I have the Haynes, Clymer, & BMW repair manuals so I should be able to figure out what you mean by that comment.

One very important thing I failed to mention. While waiting for the tow truck and back at my house, when the bike would not start; there was a strange “click, click, click” noise while the bike turned over??? It sounds like a little childs, metal “cricket” toy we used to snap between our fingers as kids. :confused1: I bought this bike new and have never heard that? Now that the bike is starting, the clicking is gone?

This bike still looks and runs wonderfully and this has been the only time it has let me down. I love my 98’!



http://www.twistedcodes.com/imghost/...57b96dd0f1.jpg

Somewhere in California a few years ago.

There is a connector under the tank from the hall effect switches to the main loom .. that can get water in it and stop the bike. I suspect this is your problem. Confirm by washing under the tank with the engine running - carefull not to get water in the air inlets!

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On the hall efffect switches .. these can and do fail. Bmw want around $300 for the complete plate (with wires and connector) or you can replace the actual small hall effect switches with new hall effect switches for $20 each. The rate of failure is related to teh temperature they experience and teh time at those higher temperatures .. I don't think Europe gets the same consistant high termperatures that are experienced here and Cali, and other places. Never the less the effects are clumuiative so I would expect failure to occur in Europe later.

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On the hall effect wiring - there are some that have normal (low temperature) wiring that will heat fatigue over time .. replace with high temperature wiring (it is actually theinsulation that does not like the heat .. not the actual wires).

---- R11 don't have the coils on the spark plugs .. that is an R12 thing ..

Hall Sensor Unit or CPU
 

What was the issue, the HSU or the CPU?
I had a similar issue. I ordered the HSU, but then it turned out the CPU wasn't seated correctly. Maybe oxididation or too many bumps in the dirt made it loose.

Sorry I never posted the outcome. I had an upcoming trip planned and was terrified to even drive it to work. Running short on time, I took it to my BMW dealer. I told him that I had washed the bike the night before and that it cut out 10 miles from home the next day during my commute. It restarted a couple of days later. He told me it could be hard to find the problem. He kept the bike for two weeks! He heated it up, sprayed it with water numerous times and checked the wiring. Nothing? He recommended, and I agreed, to replace the Hall Sensor. I have never had the problem reoccur. I did get the old sensor back from him but have never dissected it. I do plan to rebuild it. Thank you all for your help.

Better late than never, glad to hear that you got it sorted.:thumbup1:

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...oken-itu-41532