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Photo by Ellen Delis, Lagunas Ojos del Campo, Antofalla, Catamarca

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Ellen Delis,
Lagunas Ojos del Campo,
Antofalla, Catamarca



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  #16  
Old 27 Nov 2006
DaveSmith's Avatar
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Hey Se,whan!!

I hope things are going better for you. Now you know why I'm doing my round the world on a 40 year old Ducati. It's a bike with hard to find parts, but at least I can fix it most of the time. Except when the piston fell apart in New Zealand.

Small bikes are better because they are lighter. Many people who post to this list are thinking of long distance rides across the US. A big heavy bike is no good. You need a light, cheap, bike that can be abused.

Don't feel depressed by your problems. The problems are the adventure. Think of Ted Simon.

A BMW is shit. So is every bike in the world. But if you did this trip on a totally reliable bike, you'd miss out on a lot of adventure. That part is what counts.

I hope to find you when I am in Europe or Asia. If not, I will find you when I get to Korea.

Yell at the wind when you are angry or depressed or frustrated. It helps.

--Dave

The English to Korean translator said I just said this:

어이whanSe!! 것이 너를 위해 잘 가고 있다 것 을 나는 희망한다. 나가 나의 원을 살40Ducati에 세계 하고 있는 까 왜 지금 너는 있있다. 부속을 발견하는 열심히에 자전거 이다, 그러나 적어도 나는 시간의 그것을 가장 고칠 수 있는다. 를 제외하고 피스톤이 뉴질랜드안에 붕괴될 때. 더 가볍기 때문에 작은 자전거는 더 낫다. 이 명부에 배치하는 많은 사람은 미국저 쪽에 장거리 탐의 생각하고 있다. 큰 무거운 자전거는 좋닺XX. 너는 싸 빛, 학대될 수 있는 자전거를 필요로 한다. 너의 문제에의해 우울하게 해 느끼지 말라. 문제는 모험 이다. Ted사이몬의 생각하십시요. BMW은 배설물 이다. 이렇게 세계안에 각 자전거는 이다. 그러나 너가 총계로 견실한 자전거에 이 여행을 하면, 너는 많을 모험에 밖으로 놓칠텐데. 고 부분은 이다 것이 세는. 나가 유럽 또는 아시아에 있을 때 나는 너를 발견한것을 희망한다. 그렇지 않으면 나가 한국에게 얻을 경우, 나는 너를 발견할 것이다. 너가 것이 우울하게 할 것이다 좌절시켜 이을 경우의 바람에 고함. 그것은. --Dave
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  #17  
Old 27 Nov 2006
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Yes,Dave..!!

Yes,You are Damn Right..Dave..!!!
I feel much better now.

Thanks..!!!
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  #18  
Old 20 Jan 2007
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Hello Se whan,

Sorry to hear about your rear shock woes. I saw your website before... it is unfortunately in Korean. Nice photos though! I bet it was pretty interesting to ride through post-hurricane Louisana.

I also have a Dakar and enjoy mine -- and do not think it is shit. Yes, it is a more expensive date to take out -- but I find it quite capable and haven't had any troubles yet. I had a friend who did a RTW on his Dakar -- along with his buddies on Dakars (http://www.blue-dunes.com/). They had some problems just like everyone else I read about on whatever bike they are on. You may find their maintenance log interesting.

Anyway, I'm sorry your bike gave you a headache... ok, headaches. With regards to (WRT) another bike, the Honda XR-series is a great bike. I used to ride a XR200R. I loved it. These bikes are bullet-proof! You'll likely find it much better on sand than your heavier F650GS. The XR650R is known to be the King of Baja for a reason. I also like the KLR650... it's a smoother thumper. If I was to go with a XR for a world traveller, I prefer the XR600-650L since it can handle the load better and keep the speed up more when on the highways or uphill; however, a smaller displacement would also ok, but I personally would not go below 400cc. That's just my opinion. But hey, there is a bike for every butt for those who want to ride... and every bike will have a problem from time to time even with the services done at a regular interval. But there is something to be said for a smaller, lighter, uncomplicated bike. I remember seeing "The Long Way Round" and watching their cameraman zooming around the two BMW 1150 GS ADVs on a smaller bike in Mongolia when his 1150 GS ADV broke. Heck, two journalists rode the Dakar on 50cc mopeds following a parallel route a few years back from the start point in Spain. When I do Central America in 2009 with some friends, I'm planning to buy a "disposable" bike in the US near my folks place (versus paying for shipping of my Dakar from Europe). I plan to use a 80s bike dual sport/enduro (like a XR500L). Whatever I get, I plan to pay under $1500 and sell it after my trip. Dave had a point, working on the bike is part of the "fun".

WRT a rear shock, I opted for the Wilbers after my research. I compared the quality, cost and overall satisification I read about in various sites/threads. Good value for the money. Here is the US rep's site. http://www.wilbers-usa.com/wilbers/index.htm I'm sure you can find them in other countries. As you know with today's technology, you can get stuff shipped to just about anywhere.

Good luck and safe travels. May your next bike bring you less problems.
~Drew

P.S., You weren't the only one with rear shock woes. This thread may be of value.
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/equipment-reviews/works-shocks-dont-work-23959
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Last edited by drew-at-large; 20 Jan 2007 at 21:07.
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  #19  
Old 29 Jan 2007
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ther should be something wrong other than the shocks, i had an f650GS '00 and used it mostly two-up and loaded..even in quite hard trails..no problem...1. check the damping(it should be about 180 degrees from all the way through H ) increase preload all the way...ride carefully...
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  #20  
Old 29 Jan 2007
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P.S. Dave, good luck on your 2nd attempt.
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=4753&page=124

'95 Honda ST1100 Pan European
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  #21  
Old 30 Jan 2007
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shock

can't help with the specific problem, but it occurs to me the suggestions of under dampened shock suggesting either hammering at full travel or otherwise heat making the shock fail should show up as either heat or fluid leak.

I would suggest feeling for unusual heat and a visual inspection for abnormal wear perhaps indicative of a bent swing arm, mount, or similar.

The BMW replacement parts should carry a full year warranty on the specific replaced part...but a shock every 5 months is just not right.

the mount should pivot to allow change in angle of swing arm...make sure you lube the pivot and lock-tite should allow for some undertorque if clamping is the problem.

it sounds to me the shock is not allowed to slop thru it's full range of movement angles, or the inner rod is being thrown off center when torqued.

???
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  #22  
Old 30 Jan 2007
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Check the pivot points

The two guys above are right, check the shock is free to pivot. any bind here will break the rod. The same is true of cables, if the barrel is not free to pivot the cable will break due to the continuous flexing.
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