Soundproofing Land Rovers
 

Hi All,

Have any other Landrover 110 Hardtop owners come up with any nifty soundproofing solutions?
I'm considering lining all roof and side panels with rubber or foam to try and reduce cab noise.
I've tracked down some 3 or 4 mm rubber and some adhesive that might do the trick - but at a weight premium. Other things I'm considering are camping matts, or maybe the low density foam stuff they make mouse-mats from. There are some noise-killer products on the market, for silly money . . . .anyone done anything they recomend?

cheers

Huey

Cheapest solution is ear plugs and a loud stereo. New door seals made a big difference on my ex army 110. If you go through the landy mags you can get sheets of self adhesive lead lined black foam with a hard wearing surface. Cheaper to buy the sheets than buying a ready made kit. also if yours leaks like mine don't use anything that will rot (and smell)

I had a noisy 110 hardtop once, it's now much quieter, but it'll never be car like. The biggest difference was fitting a standard under bonnet sound deadening mat - buy second hand. Next on the list was standard domestic carpet underlay on top the seat boxes (under the front seats) with an extra layer of thin ribbed rubber sheet on top of them. Fit the standard footwell rubber liners and gearbox cover, (again second hand in my case) makes a big difference. I also fitted some carpet underlay under the gearbox tunnel section - it's a tight fit, but worth it. Fit thick rubber floor mats in front. The rear floor benefits from underlay with a thin rubber mat on top. The rear 'seat boxes' (that you can sit on in the back) have thin rubber sheet plonked on top to stop loads sliding.

If your 110 leaks you'll need to replace the rear underlay about once a year, but it's cheap and smells nice when new, but manky when damp.

I did have car type carpet glued to the ceiling which does make a significant difference, but it keeps falling off. The best solution IMHO is use Bostik in a tub (not spray glue - useless) to attach VERY thin rubber sheet, otherwise the rubber is heavy. I haven't got round to doing this yet.

The side walls I have screwed water resistant MDF to, and varnished it in a suitable colour. Ordinary MDF will warp when it gets damp within a year.

Hope this helps, contact me if you want.

Bye
Andrew.

Thanks guys. Its not like mine is too bad as it is - already got the under bonnet thingy and thick matts in cab floor and tunnell. Its really the roof and rear that I want to tackle. Am being sent a sample of 3mm rubber that I'm going to try sticking to the roof and see how long it lasts before doing the whole thing.
I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers

Huey

Just use carpet, stuck on with spray-on contact adhesive. We've done the last two Landies with this. Not only is it easy to do, but it looks great and takes the knocks and is easier to lean against. Also eliminates condensation in the mornings.

I got thin (but not the cheapest) foam-backed carpet from CarpetRight - I think the entire car cost about £45. It's lasted 2 years and a trip to Algeria.

Cheers

Ollie

PS - on our lifting roof, for more insulation, we stuck the carpet to 4mm marine ply and then screwed these panels to the frames, filling the gaps between frames with 1" polystyrene sheets (from a builders merchant). These have been fine also.

[This message has been edited by ollieholden (edited 05 November 2003).]

Hi Ollie,

what brand adhesive did you use?

thanks!

Huey

A friend in the trade got me a batch of Floorwise carpet adhesive spray cans. It's seriously sticky - you only get one shot at sticking on the foam-backed carpet...

I might have some left, I will check tonight. How much carpetting are you doing?

Hi Ollie,

want to do all the roof panels and the 4 side panels in the rear. At a guess I'd say this will total about 5 square metres?
thanks!!

Huey