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Equipping the Overland Vehicle Vehicle accessories - Making your home away from home comfortable, safe and reliable.
Photo by George Guille, It's going to be a long 300km... Bolivian Amazon

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Photo by George Guille
It's going to be a long 300km...
Bolivian Amazon



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  #1  
Old 10 Apr 2014
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power coat verses galvanise
What do people think? for parts that I can remove and clean up, before refitting. I need to stop the rust.

Graeme
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  #2  
Old 10 Apr 2014
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I used to make bits for boats. You cannot beat hot dipped galvanising.
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  #3  
Old 11 Apr 2014
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Powder coating lifts off the surface it's supposed to save, you will get rust underneath where you can't see it
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Old 11 Apr 2014
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If they are going to see any weather galv them as said power coating will lift and rust underneath
H
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  #5  
Old 11 Apr 2014
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you just have to be careful not to warp it if galvanising. the other option for small parts is passivating.
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  #6  
Old 11 Apr 2014
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Please note, I specifically said to use the "hot dip" process. there are a number of places that call spraying on a zinc based paint "galvanising". Only true hot dip is good. the rest are useless.
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Old 12 Apr 2014
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Anodizing or Chrome ?
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  #8  
Old 12 Apr 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbmw View Post
Only true hot dip is good. the rest are useless.
Hot dip galv may not lend itself well to small complex parts.

I would try to find a local plating company and go and have a chat. There are electroplated and passivated coatings that can give good protection when properly matched to the expected environment.
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Old 12 Apr 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbmw View Post
Please note, I specifically said to use the "hot dip" process. there are a number of places that call spraying on a zinc based paint "galvanising". Only true hot dip is good. the rest are useless.


Absolutely, hot dipped is far the best way to protect steel, any closed box sections like side protection bars should be drilled in several places (in a discreet area) prior to hot dip galvanising to allow the zinc to flow through and coat the inside and to prevent heat/air pressure from warping it.


My Dad has a boat trailer he designed and had built in 1982 in the back garden that was hot dip galvanised - still looks new today.


Yeah its not so good for small parts, but for protection bars and roof racks on a 4x4 its by far the best process.
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Old 12 Apr 2014
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Thanks for the replies, Griff I don't suppose your dad got the trailer dipped in Poole? if so where

Graeme
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Old 12 Apr 2014
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Hi Graeme


I think the trailer was built near Bristol somewhere, cant remember the name of the company, but I had some parts galvanized about 10 years ago in Poole and these guys did it:


Wessex Fabrications - Gates, Railings, Fire Escapes in Poole and Bournemouth


worth giving them a call for a quote.


the only thing to bear in mind with hot dipping is that any threads might need to be cleaned out afterwards with a tap.
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Old 13 Apr 2014
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Thanks Grif, I will call them.

Graeme
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  #13  
Old 13 Apr 2014
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Originally Posted by Gipper View Post
Hi Graeme

the only thing to bear in mind with hot dipping is that any threads might need to be cleaned out afterwards with a tap.
Very true, I machined up a set of keel bolts and had to put them back into the lathe to clean them. Quite a task as zinc is soft and clogs cutting tools easily.

Some places can actually "spin" threaded parts to help alleviate this problem.
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  #14  
Old 20 Apr 2014
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I've used Wessex galvanizers several times for LR chassis and other bits (side sills/B pillers etc)

always been good and fairly reasonable in price.

they're in Southampton area, not far off the A34 heading south.
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  #15  
Old 20 Apr 2014
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Anodizing or Chrome ?
Anodizing is for Aluminium, chrome is for steel.

Anodizing ally is a great way to go. Surface toughens the ally, and stops the black rub-off, and prevents corrosion.
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