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  #1  
Old 3 Oct 2004
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Frame Rust: critical opinions?

From what I've read, and now tried, this seems like a great way to protect your frame from rust:

http://www.greenlaner.net/features/o...protection.htm

But I want to know if anyone else has tried this over the long haul. My frame has some rust forming, but I'm lazy and this seemed like a great way to kill the rust before it gets worse.

Any thoughts on this technique?

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  #2  
Old 3 Oct 2004
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Rust also forms from the inside of a chassis - it may be worse inside than out depending on the environment your vehicle lives in. My own 110 chassis is being filled with waxoil next spring after I return from the desert when it will be dried out hopefully.

The outside has surface rust and this I will wire brush off, also next spring, with an electric drill and paint by hand with chassis paint, NOT Hammerite. I'll be able to borrow my friendly local garage's vehicle lift to be able to get to the underside easily and do the job in one day.

The other obvious alternative is to sandblast and spray paint the outside of the chassis but in practice blasting is so slow and messy (and sand consuming) and spraying waxoil is similarly filthy - we abandoned this idea.

We looked at all the other options and dismissed them. Leaky Land Rovers do have some benefits it's true!

Andrew.
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  #3  
Old 4 Oct 2004
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In North Africa they spray diesel onto the chassis frames of their lorries to inhibit rust and corrosion. Your mix sounds like the same idea. I would not use old engine oil though (messy). Why not use a new stuff -it's not that expensive?

However in climes like the UK there is no substitute IMHO for waxol or some similar product. Its far more durable. It is also possible to apply it yourself rather than paying a garage to do the job in order to keep costs down.

Perhaps the job of a spray such as you suggest is to ensure the rust is kept away between your regular (once every two years) waxol coatings?

Andrew's point about getting the coating into the interior of the frame is also important.

I just sold my 1994 Defender and the chassis was rust free despite a hard offroad / expedition life.

[This message has been edited by ctc (edited 04 October 2004).]
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  #4  
Old 15 Nov 2004
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Remember that all these chemicals if sprayed and left on the underside of the vehicle will degrade other important parts like rubber hoses and electrical wiring and to a lesser extend the body undercoating.

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  #5  
Old 5 Apr 2005
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Andrew - why would you not use Hammerite on the chassis?

Dan
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  #6  
Old 5 Apr 2005
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Dan,

Because Hammerite dries out into a hard crust and after a year or two will crack and eventually chip off. It's better to use tried and tested paints like Chassis Black or rubber based paints.

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  #7  
Old 6 Apr 2005
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Been giving my 90 a good steam cleaning - allowing to dry thouroughly - for a week if possible - then using phosphoric acid on any surface rust (theres not much) - kills it straight away - then using black finnigans waxoil sprayed into and all over the chassis and especially the rear crossmember every 2 years - chassis is still in excellent shape after 10 years of heavy use - just make sure you spray when there is no wind !!!
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  #8  
Old 6 Apr 2005
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Gipper:
Been giving my 90 a good steam cleaning - allowing to dry thouroughly - for a week if possible - then using phosphoric acid on any surface rust (theres not much) - kills it straight away - then using black finnigans waxoil sprayed into and all over the chassis and especially the rear crossmember every 2 years - chassis is still in excellent shape after 10 years of heavy use - just make sure you spray when there is no wind !!!
Grif
[/QUOTE

OR: Get a galvanised chassis!!!!
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Old 6 Apr 2005
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Tony - when the chassis is u/s I will - why change it when it is ok ? - better to wait till the bodywork/bulhead needs replacing then do it all together with a galvanised chassis - another 10 years maybe.... The cost of a new chassis and the down time of swopping everything over buys an awful lot of wayoil....
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