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  #1  
Old 11 Mar 2004
ctc ctc is offline
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Engel Fridge Wiring

Have just installed an Engel fridge, however the cable it comes with has a cigarette lighter type connection.

Not happy with that as it will get knocked out etc. Therefore thinking along the lines of putting a standard automotive DIN plug on the end. Only problem with this is that it would mean no heat sensitive fuse which is housed in the cigaretter lighter plug which is currently on the end.

Anyone proud of their wiring solutions out there?

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  #2  
Old 11 Mar 2004
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Hello ctc,

A heat sensitive fuse which is housed in the cigaretter lighter plug? Doesn't make much sense to me. What does it protect that can't be protected with a fuse before or after the plug? What a heat sensitive fuse can do than a standard automotive fuse can't?

I wouldn't worry abut this fuse at all. Just wire the fridge from the battery through a separate 25A fuse using 39 amp automotive wire (4 sq. mm). You should remember that the surge current when the compressor is switched on can be well in excess of 50A. DIN connectors are rated at 10A cont., so it'd be a good idea to use an uprated connector. Have a look at this: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.c.../battisol.html (item Ref: PP50R or Ref: PP50S)

I'd use a 39 amp thinwall cable (56/0.30mm, 4mm2, (item Ref:39) to keep resistance low.

Any more queries, just let me know.


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  #3  
Old 12 Mar 2004
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Many thanks, order placed!
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  #4  
Old 16 Mar 2004
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For anyone in the US with a similar problem, West Marine can supply marine-grade electrical accessories, including this outlet:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...roductId=30763

Also Halfords in the UK do a great 4-way cigar-type connector for 7.99, after thousands of miles in North and South Africa and North America I've *never* had a plug dropout.

Cheers,
Nick.

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  #5  
Old 16 Mar 2004
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Nice touch with the locking type plug.

Re plugs falling out, you're a lucky man. I own a 110 where the sockets are fitted either side of the gearstick, by the time you have done a couple of gear changes or bumped around a bit you'll have lost connection on them both. All part of the beautiful and thoughtfully engineered dashboard!
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Old 16 Mar 2004
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Hi,
I mounted my 4-ways on the dash in front of the passenger side (the left side). Here's a picture of it:



(Yes, I know it's untidy, it was a work in progress at this point)!

On the 90, it's wired in to the aux battery, on the 110 it's on it's original cigar plug, plugged into the cigar lighter socket if and when I need it.

Cheers,
Nick.

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1996 BMW F650
1996 300 TDi 90
1997 NAS D90 ST #685
1998 Camel Trophy 110 CT47

[This message has been edited by nickt (edited 16 March 2004).]
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  #7  
Old 20 Mar 2004
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Hi

I have a 40L Engel and was concerned by: "You should remember that the surge current when the compressor is switched on can be well in excess of 50A."

If this is so, why do Engel only request a 15A fuse on a direct 12V DC feed?

As to the "heat sensitive fuse" there is one in the cig plug fitting that Engel supplies:

"A special thermal 10A fuse that is to protect against the application of reverse polarity" - it can damage the inverter it seems.

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Old 22 Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bundubasher:
... well in excess of 50A. If this is so, why do Engel only request a 15A fuse on a direct 12V DC feed?

Enzo,

A turn-on current surge lasts several miliseconds, a fast acting quick blow fuse withstands 300% overcurent for 0.15 - 5 sec.

Quote:
Originally posted by Bundubasher:
"A special thermal 10A fuse that is to protect against the application of reverse polarity" - it can damage the inverter it seems.
Protection against thermal overload and reverse current are two completely different things; the former requires a thermistor or bimetalic fuse/circuit breaker, the latter a rectifier diode. One cannot do both, and frankly there's no need for it.




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  #9  
Old 22 Mar 2004
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Still doesn't make sense as the above was quoted from my Engel "manual". I understand your cautionary advice but what I don't understand is circumventing Engel's recomended procedures (if you decide to use the OE lighter socket fitment) - surely this will make any claim you make, under warranty, invalid? If you are direct wiring your fridge to the battery they still only advise using a 15V fuse (on the pos line).

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  #10  
Old 22 Mar 2004
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Enzo,

By way of general explanation of vehicle electrics - fuses are there to protect the wiring, not the devices connected to it. Hence, the fuse value needs to correspond to the current rating of the wires used to connect the device(s) to the battery, not the rated power of the device(s).

If you don't feel comfortable with wiring your own electrical circuits, better follow manufacturer's advice. It not always works the way you'd want it to, but at least it's safe.


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  #11  
Old 23 Mar 2004
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Well if I pay over £600 for a fridge unit then I am not about to start playing silly buggers with the wiring and thereby voiding my warranty - manufacturers usually like any legal reason, such as custom wiring solutions, to wriggle out of their "care of duty" to us customers.

Hell, I don't have that much money to play with, so when it's out of warranty fine - wire it up however you see fit - but until then I'd stick to manufacturers guidelines.

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