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  #1  
Old 23 Apr 2006
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300 TDi questions

Hi,
I have a 300 TDi with 118,000 on the clock (with a full history, ex utilities). I've had a new timing belt and complete service and it runs really well. Just got back from 3k trip round the Alps and Pyrenees and two or three things have come up - I'd appreciate any advice or ideas from anybody who has a better knowledge of this enging than me...

1). the second injector pipe fractured and the snapped in half. Is this a common problem ? (now replaced and the engine is fine again)

2). I get an occasional high pitch squeal from the front end, which I think is coming from the water pump. Is this the likely source of the noise or is there some other part I should have looked at ?

3). the clutch pedal has less resistance to it than when I set out. The service record I have does not say that the clutch ahs ever been replaced. I'm leaving on an 18 month trip in six months time. Would you get the clucth changed now ?

thanks for your thoughts ...


Simon
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  #2  
Old 24 Apr 2006
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Hi Simon,

2. The noise could also come from the serpentine drivebelt that drives the auxiliaries.

To test it, just drop some water on it, if the noise disappears that is the cause. It can squel if misalligned, which you might be able to cure by loosening the tensioner, and putting a penny or washer underneath (experiment to find right location) to change allignment. It worked for me.
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  #3  
Old 24 Apr 2006
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A couple of comments. The mileage you state is no problem for a 300 tdi provided the oil has been changed regularly. I bought one with 124,000 on the clock and did a number of fairly gruelling expeditions with it must have had over 170,000 by the time I sold it and it was still going fine. The engine never failed me once.

Ref injectors I never had any problems.

Ref noise from front end. I have some history here: two failed water pumps and two failed alternators. The bolts holding the water pump in place kept shearing. As you know, the water pump, alternator and power steering pump are all on the same belt which is tensioned by the belt tensioner.

Firstly have a look and see whether the bolts which attach the water pump to the block are intact. Then bend back the belt tensioner and take the belt off and see whether the water pump wheel can move freely and if there is any "play." Seek a mechanic's advise but my recommendation would be to first change the belt, second the belt tensioner and third the water pump and see if it is cured - in that order. It would be worth doing this job yourself as its quite easy and the water pump is a spare I would suggest taking on your trip. Just take your time and follow the Haynes manual.

Ref clutch I would change it before you go on your next trip and get a heavy duty one installed - IMHO the piece of mind make it worthwhile. You may also be getting some slack from the the transfer box and or worn prop shafts though. Again get a professional opinion.

Last edited by ctc; 26 Apr 2006 at 13:33.
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  #4  
Old 24 Apr 2006
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Brakes:

It might be worth carrying a spare clutch/brake master and slave cyllinder. I hade my clutch slave cyllinder failing in Etosha national park, meaning one day less game viewing and 200 or so km's driving without clutch.
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Old 25 Apr 2006
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Betwem the 2 300Tdi engines that i've owned, i've orobably doen about 250,000miles, and only had one injector pipe break (that was when one of the engines was fairly new, under 1 year old), so i don't think that is really a problematic thing, although keeping a spare set of pipes would be prudent.

the only thing i've had recurring problems with, is the fuel lift pump. again, cheap enought to carry a spare and only a 10 minute job to change.

Definately a good overland engine though!
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  #6  
Old 25 Apr 2006
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Thanks

Hi,
thanks for all the tips so far. Doesn't really sound like I have too much of a problem on my hands which is great. I've already changed the drive belt, so I'll check it is alighed properly. Just discovered also that water pumps are not very expensive so maybe I'll do that too.

One last thing guys.. what workshop manual would you recommend for the 300 TDi ? My vehicle is a 130. I can't find a Haynes that covers the 300 TDi and the Landrover manual is a bit dense... any other ideas ?

cheers and thanks for the help,


Simon
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Old 25 Apr 2006
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repair manual

If you are planning to take a laptop you could get the LR Rave CD which has the full repair manual on. Not as handy as a book, but saves place.
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Old 26 Apr 2006
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I'd personally take the Land Rover Manual. Whilst they are bulky it'll tell you pretty much all you need to know.

I stored mine in Lartge Lever Arch file. Its also worth threading treasury tags or cord through some of the punch holes so that it doesnt all fall out if you drop it.

You could also frighten your girlfriend / wife by keeping it by your bed and dipping into it every now and again! Its far less stressful reading it out of interest rather than for real when you are trouble shooting!

Last edited by ctc; 26 Apr 2006 at 13:43.
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  #9  
Old 26 Apr 2006
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Don't assume that changing for new now will stop problems, I know that is what we expect but take spares as well.
I had my "BIG" service done in August 2004, before setting off for Tunisia in December, I had the cam belt changed. LR informed me that the water pump bearing was worn and that they could change it, while off the car, for a new one. It seemed like a good idea (£141 worth), genuine LR part, fitted by LR mechanics. December 27th the new pump failed, the bearing had gone. I spent 4 mornings patching it up but in the end had to tow and trailer the car back to the ferry in Tunis, finally got the Britpart pump, delivered to hotel, in Marseille. French dealers said it would take ten days to get a pump, it was a warranty job. I've still got the replacement LR pump as a spare now.
Having said all of this; I went again this year, complete with spares, including pump, and had no problems at all.
Mine is a 200TDi, not 300 like yours, aslo it now has 196,000 miles on the clock.
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  #10  
Old 27 Apr 2006
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Some useful stuff

Nice to here the 300 TDi can rack up this kind of mileage!!!

Ours is at 133k and I am just getting familiar with her. On the subject of Haynes Manuals, we could not find one that went beyond N Reg 1995. But I was able to download a copy of the engine overhaul manual and 450 page Defender manual (but have lost the web link - sorry). I cannot attach the files on the HUBB as they are too big to post. If you want a copy I can send you one (they are pdf format)

Email us at: contact@langebaan-sunset.com

Regards

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  #11  
Old 1 May 2006
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the squeal

thanks for the advice. I've now dripped some water on the belt (as suggested)... and yep... the squeal just stopped. So it looks like what I thought was a knackered water pump is infact a noisy belt. Not quite sure waht to do about it in the longer term. I guess it may just settle dwon.

Anyway, thanks



Simon
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  #12  
Old 1 May 2006
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Why not try the "penny solution"? It has worked for a number of people.
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  #13  
Old 1 May 2006
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I have also had the squealing belt/rattling pulley experience; WD40 applied to the belt and pulleys at squeaking time is one solution, replacing any worn pulleys which cause slight belt misalignment is another.

Andrew.
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  #14  
Old 2 May 2006
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that squeaking feeling !

Thanks.
I've had a look at the belt and pulleys now. The only place that there seems to be any play at all is on the tensioner itself. The part actually makes contact with the belt has about 1-1.5mm of movement in it - even with the belt in place. Is that normal or clearly worn out and therefore needs replacing ?

I'm a bit unclear about the "penny or washer" solution. Where do you place that exactly ? Behind the tensioner spring assembly where it bolts to the block. Any more details on how to do this and where would be much appreciated.

Cheers,


Simon
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  #15  
Old 3 May 2006
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penny

Yes, you put the penny/washer between tensioner bracket and engine block. The 9 o'clock position seems to work for most people, but you might have to experiment.

I must say though that with the play you mentioned you might be better of replacing the tensioner, or fixing it with a new bearing.

Have a look here
http://threads.lro.com/cgi-bin/wwwth...collapsed&sb=5

where the same issue is being discussed. A search on that board will bring up previous threads with more details.
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